gym routines

Summary

Sketches of gym routines I’ve used in the past / are currently using. No guarantee of results or scientific accuracy, this is just what ended up feeling good to me.

push/pull/legs

This is the final evolution of the routine I built when I first started going to the gym. I graduated from this since I now prefer to build strength for specific needs (like climbing or other sports).

general guidelines

• start with compound exercises first and get to specific muscles at the end
• Aim for a minimum of 1 rest day in between each gym session. (feels like too much rest? go play a sport or go run or do something active outside of the gym on a a rest day!!)
• Time your rests in between sets (do what feels comfortable- I ended up doing around 2 minute rests)
• Identify your goals and adjust accordingly. (Want strength? bias more towards high-weight low-rep. Want endurance? bias more towards cardio and time-based compound exercises like planks or farmer carry. Want good looking muscles? bias more towards medium-weight high-rep.)
• weight gain/loss and body composition are a mostly separate category of things to worry about imo. Gym exercises will help, but your diet + habits outside of the gym will matter much more for this.
• make sure you consume enough water/electrolytes before+during exercise, and consume a decent amount of protein (~30-50g) within an hour after a gym session, for best results.
• do some basic stretching before/during/after exercise. doesn’t need to be long or involved, but something is always better than nothing!
• standard gym session is around 60 to 90 minutes long (10min warmup/stretch, 30-60min main exercise block, 20min supplementary exercise).
• keep track of your current/standard weights for each exercise. It’s ok to drop down on a particular day if you’re feeling tired, but aim to increase your month-to-month average!

supplementary exercises

Choose one of the following archetypes to supplement each gym day with (typically after the regular session). Block out a minimum of 15 minutes for each of these.

• Cardio: treadmill, stairmaster, elliptical, rowing machine, etc.
• Core: planks, russian twists, weighted sit-ups, and all of the variations. (plenty of youtube videos to put on for 10-20 minute long core workouts, if you need inspiration)
• Flexibility: yoga and other forms of active+deliberate stretching routines. (also plenty of youtube videos for these)

push day

1. Big compound push exercises (choose 2-3)
   • 3x8 bench press
     • Start with dumbbells until you can easily bench a standard bar (45lbs) in a controlled + even manner, then graduate to bench press.
     • Follow with 1x bench press max (only after starting bench press, and only if you have a spotter)
   • 3x8 shoulder press (dumbells)
   • 3x10 shoulder press (machine)
   • 3x10 tricep dips (assisted or weighted as needed)
   • 3x20 push ups
     • Mix and match variations to make them more difficult as needed
   • 3x10 chest flys
2. Triceps
   • Tricep pulldowns (3x10)
   • Face pulls (3x10)

pull day

1. Big compound pull exercises (choose 2-3)
   • 3x8 pull ups (assisted or weighted as needed)
     • Follow with 1x max weight pull-up
   • Dumbbell rows
   • Lat pulldown (machine)
   • Seated mid rows (machine)
2. Biceps
   • 3x10 Bicep curls or any variation

leg day

1. Big compound leg exercises (choose 2-3)
   • 3x8 deadlifts (either dumbbells or on rack)
   • 3x8 squats (or leg press machine)
   • 3x10 lunge walk (i.e. 10 forward or backward lunge steps per leg per set)
2. Specific exercises
   • 3x10 calf raises
   • Assorted leg exercise machines

current routine

I usually climb 2-3x per week, and exercise at the gym 2-3x per week (usually right after a climbing session, but sometimes separately).

moonboarding

• (currently taking a break since my current home gym doesn’t have a moonboard.)
• Lab + repeat a few benchmarks on rotation. Mostly on 25 degrees.

hangboarding

• 10 seconds (or as many as feels safe) on, followed by 1 minute off.
  • my current ledge of choice is 12mm.
• alternatively, same split with 10lbs added weight on larger ledge (15mm).

strength training

campus board

• 1-2 rounds of standard one-at-a-time climbing on largest ledge.
• 2 sets of max one-arm reach

one arm pull up training

The current project. My current theory is that I need a minimum of 200% bodyweight pull strength to achieve this. Currently doing the following after each climb session:

• 1 set of 3 weighted pull ups for warm-up
• 3 sets of 1-rep max weighted pull up (adjust higher/lower based on current gravity levels)
• 1x weighted muscle up
• future (once strength is better): assisted one-arm pull up with resistance band

standard gym stuff

The heavy rotation. Usually do most/all of these per session (I don’t do a good job of stratifying them by muscle group or whatever anymore..)

• One of bench press / dumbell press / shoulder press
• Regular unweighted pull ups (3x10) (optional)
• Dumbbell rows / seated machine row
• One of dips / tricep extension / face pulls
• Bicep curls (optional)
• Core exercise (usually weighted sit-ups or planks)
• 1 mile treadmill run / 1km rowing